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Ha! This is probably the most spurious mod I have tried to do to my car, but I don't regret it for a second. There is an unwritten rule that a car's top end should not be able to bury the speedometer needle. Since my stock speedo faceplate "only" went up to "160 mph," I decided to try and replace it with this.
I purchased my speedo faceplate on eBay from a guy based in Great Britain. Last time I checked, this item was NLA (no longer available).
Here are the instructions that came with the faceplate: "You must first find out where the true zero point is for the needle. Before removing the needle you should keep it under power with the the ignition switched on and carefully lever the needle over the rest pin. If the needle immediately springs back to the zero point, then the zero is at the pin. If it stays below the pin then the zero point must be marked before disassembly. On reassembly you must not put the needle on until the unit is under power, switched on and then put it at the zero point found earlier. At all times you must remember not to remove the cluster with the battery connected, even if the ignition is switched off. A household fork is a good tool for gently easing the needle off."
Realize that just zeros the needle. The speedometer still needed to be calibrated since "high noon" on my old faceplate was around 80 mph. I looked at a couple of electronic calibration devices. These are basically little black boxes that need to be spliced into different wires behind the speedometer, and cost upwards of $100-$150. Yikes!
I do not ever plan to test the top end of my Z anywhere except perhaps the Bonneville Salt Flats. Please note that if for some insane reason you find yourself going faster than 140 mph in a Z, if you hit the brakes you will most likely warp your stock rotors from the heat. You should coast to under 140 mph before touching the brakes, assuming of course that you have the room to do so. Replacing the rotors would be preferable to replacing the entire car, or your life.