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Equipment needed:

  • Floor jack (preferably low profile "racing" jack)
  • Ramps (mine are homemade, see first pic)
  • Side or spare tire jack (so floor jack will fit under rear center jacking point)
  • Wheel chocks (two came with the jack kit in car under hatch carpet)
  • Four jack stands

SAFETY FIRST!  Read the site disclaimer first here.

I made these simple "ramps" so I could drive the car on them and get just enough lift for the floor jack to fit under front of car.

These chocks behind the rear wheels are part of the jack kit that came with the car, under the carpet in the hatch.

Car is in reverse with emergency brake pulled.  Low profile floor jack under front of car.

That is my floor jack, rated for XXXX  pounds.  I bought it at Harbor Freight and it has served me well.  Jack car high enough to get jack stands into place.  I should've showed a pic that shows this exact jack point.  Don't put the jack on the oil pan!  Check your manual.  Don't do it if you're not sure. 

Front jack stands go under this part of the frame box.

Rear jacking point on the body of the differential.  I was barely able to slide my low profile floor jack under this once the front was on jack stands.  On my z32, I had to use the side jack (spare tire jack) to lift the side of the car in order to get the floor jack under the rear of the car. 

So unless you have a low profile "racing" floor jack, you may also need to use the spare tire jack to lift one side of the car so the floor jack will have room to slide under as shown.  

Rear jack stands are on these "ridges" that are continuations of the box part of the frame where thr front jack stands are also supporting the car.   

The jack stand points on my z31 are surprisingly close to center.  The front wheels are not touching and the ramps can be pulled out to make room for crawling under the car.  These are the jack stand points shown in my Haynes manual. 

I jacked the car to replace the slave cylinder and install a stainless steel clutch line.