I pressed on my streering wheel cruise control switch one day and it fell behind the horn switch cover.
First thing is to remove the horn fuse.
The horn fuse is in the fuse box down by the kick panel next to the driver's L foot. Remove 10A horn fuse, L column, fourth up from the bottom. Otherwise the horn will be constantly honking as you pry off the cover and work on the switch
This one picture sums up this post the best. I owned two service manuals - a factory one and a Haynes. They both just stated to "remove" the horn switch plate cover. I kept looking for screws and bolts and started disassembling the steering wheel from behind.
Instead, the cover simply pries off with a little oomph. The four circled prawls are holding the cover in place by wedge pressure only. There are not any screws, nuts or bolts and the steering wheel does not need to be disassembled from behind at all. I used my nylon trim tools to safely pry the cover off. Get as close as you can to each prawl and liberate the cover one prawl at a time.
After I bought a set of these nylon pry tools from Eastwood, I wondered how I ever got along without them. These are very strong but much more gentle than a screwdriver when prying on car interior pieces and plastic panels.
The housing around the switches was so cracked and crumbled that I could not glue it back together. The switch was NLA from the dealer.
Broken switch removed from steering wheel, connector in hand. The prawls behind the horn switch cover insert into the paired vertical and horizontal slots shown circled in red on the horn plate.
Back of switch, removed and disconnected from car.
Foam can huggies used to fab repair
Foam bottoms already had holes in them through which to pass the electrical connector.
Switch fixed and functional, held firmly in place by the pressure from the foam pieces behind it. Switch had a "rubber mounted" feel to it that suited me just fine.